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Pothos — Epipremnum aureum, also called Devil’s Ivy and Golden Pothos — is the trailing houseplant most people end up with eventually because it forgives nearly every beginner mistake except one. Before anything else, the pet-safety story:
⚠ Pet warning — toxic to dogs and cats.
Per the ASPCA, Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is toxic to both dogs and cats. The toxic principle is insoluble calcium oxalates, with reported clinical signs of “oral irritation, intense burning and irritation of mouth, tongue and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting, difficulty swallowing” (ASPCA, “Golden Pothos”). Pothos vines drape down low and stems shed leaves that curious pets often investigate — keep the plant well out of reach or pick a verified non-toxic alternative. Always cross-check the ASPCA database before bringing home any new plant.
Light
NC State Extension’s guidance: “bright, indirect light” is the preferred condition, and the plant “survives for long periods in low light” (NC State Extension). That hardiness in low light is why Pothos shows up in offices and hallways everywhere — but NC State flags a specific consequence on the same page: “low light causes loss of variegation”. In other words: a ‘Golden’ or ‘Marble Queen’ Pothos kept in a dim spot will gradually fade to plain green new growth. Move it to brighter light to bring colour back.
Bright indirect = a few feet off a south or west window, or right by an east window. Direct sun in the middle of the day scorches the leaves. See houseplant light requirements.
Water
NC State’s guidance is to “let the well-drained potting medium dry out between watering” (NC State Extension). Pothos forgives a slightly thirsty plant much more readily than a constantly wet one. Test the top inch of soil with a finger; if it’s dry, water until it drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer.
The most common Pothos problem is overwatering. NC State states it directly: “root rot and blackening of leaf margins can occur with overwatering” (NC State Extension). If your Pothos is going yellow, drooping or showing black at leaf edges, see overwatering vs underwatering and the root-rot guide.
Soil
NC State describes the soil profile as a well-drained potting medium with high organic matter and good drainage (NC State Extension). A standard quality houseplant mix works; if you blend your own, see the soil-mix guide.
Humidity and temperature
NC State recommends raising humidity in dry indoor air with “a humidifier or… a tray of wet pebbles” (NC State Extension). It tolerates ordinary indoor temperatures comfortably; avoid cold drafts and the air right next to heating vents.
If your leaves are showing brown tips, the indoor air is one of the usual suspects.
Fertilizing
A light feed during active growth (spring–summer) is enough. Skip fertiliser on a stressed or freshly repotted plant. See the fertilizing guide.
Repotting
Pothos grows quickly when conditions suit it and benefits from being potted up before it becomes severely pot-bound. The signs and timing are in when and how to repot a houseplant.
Propagation
This is what Pothos is famous for. NC State lists stem cutting as the propagation method and notes that “vines easily root in water” (NC State Extension). The step-by-step on how to take and root a cutting in water is in how to propagate houseplants in water.
Common problems
NC State flags mealybugs and scales as pests to monitor (NC State Extension). Both have prevention/management guides here: mealybugs, spider mites. If something else looks wrong — yellowing, drooping, curling, black margins — start with the troubleshooting hub.
Size and habit
NC State notes that as a container plant Pothos generally retains its juvenile leaf shape and that vines can reach considerable length with support (NC State Extension). For trailing display, hang the pot or train vines on a pole; the longer the vines, the more important it is to keep them well out of reach of any pets (see warning above).