Some links on this page may be affiliate links — they never change our advice. How we research: How We Research.
Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is the houseplant most people end up recommending to a friend with pets, because the ASPCA actually lists it as pet-safe — and because it’s nearly impossible to kill. Let’s get the pet-safety part out of the way first.
✓ Pet-safe — ASPCA-listed non-toxic to dogs and cats.
Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is non-toxic to both dogs and cats, per the ASPCA — one of the few popular houseplants the database explicitly clears (ASPCA, “Spider Plant”). That’s why it’s the go-to recommendation for pet households. A practical note: “non-toxic” does not mean “calorie-free salad” — pets that chew large quantities of any plant can still have GI upset. And cats in particular sometimes find the trailing leaves and plantlets irresistible, which is more about the plant getting wrecked than the pet getting harmed.
Light
NC State Extension’s guidance: “medium light levels yet can tolerate deep shade. It is intolerant of direct sunlight” (NC State Extension). A spot with bright indirect light is best for keeping the variegated ‘Vittatum’ / ‘Bonnie’ / ‘Hawaiian’ stripes vivid; in deep shade the variegation fades and growth slows. Direct sun scorches the leaves.
For more on what “medium light” actually means in a real room, see houseplant light requirements.
Water
NC State: “grows best in moist soil” but tolerates drought, with a specific watering note — “avoid watering with tap water as the chlorine and fluorides can cause leaf tip burn. Reduce watering during winter” (NC State Extension).
That tap-water sensitivity is the most common cause of brown leaf tips on spider plants — see tap water and houseplants and brown leaf tips. If your municipal water is heavily chlorinated/fluoridated, switching to rainwater or letting tap water sit overnight before using helps.
Otherwise water when the top inch of soil feels dry; the plant has fleshy, water-storing roots and recovers fast from being a bit thirsty.
Soil and drainage
NC State describes the soil as good drainage and loam with neutral pH (6.0–8.0) (NC State Extension). A standard houseplant mix works; see the soil-mix guide.
Temperature and humidity
NC State: “keep temperatures above 45°F” and the plant prefers medium air humidity — a humidifier or pebble tray helps in dry indoor air (NC State Extension).
Propagation — the famous plantlets
This is the easiest propagation of any houseplant. NC State: “spider plant propagates easily by plantlets or division”, and the plantlets develop when “the mother plant receives short days and long, uninterrupted nights — less than 12 hours of light a day — for at least three weeks” (NC State Extension).
The plantlets (“spiderettes”) that dangle on long stems can be pegged into a neighbouring pot of moist soil while still attached to the mother plant; once they root they’re cut free. They also root readily in water — see how to propagate houseplants in water for the general method.
If your spider plant isn’t producing plantlets, the most common reason is that it’s getting too much night-time light (street lamps through a window, a hallway light left on overnight). Give it long uninterrupted darkness for three weeks and the plantlets usually start.
Mature size
NC State: height 1 to 1.5 feet, width 1 to 2 feet (NC State Extension) — the main plant stays compact; the plantlets are what makes it dramatic in a hanging basket.
Common problems
NC State notes “no significant problems” for spider plant (NC State Extension). The two issues that come up most in practice are brown leaf tips (almost always tap-water-related) and limp growth in a too-dark spot. Start with the troubleshooting hub if anything else goes wrong.
Fertilizing and repotting
Light feed during active growth — see fertilizing guide. Spider plants do become pot-bound and benefit from periodic upgrading; the repotting guide covers timing.